INCI
Ingredient family

POLYSORBATE

Polysorbates are ethoxylated sorbitan derivatives linked to fatty portions. The number separates structures with different chains and degrees of esterification: 20 and 21 use a C12 chain; 40 uses C16; 60 and 61 use saturated C18; 80 and 81 use unsaturated C18.

FAMILYPO22 products

What it is

Polysorbates are ethoxylated sorbitan derivatives linked to fatty portions. The number separates structures with different chains and degrees of esterification: 20 and 21 use a C12 chain; 40 uses C16; 60 and 61 use saturated C18; 80 and 81 use unsaturated C18.

The 65 and 85 forms carry three C18 portions, whereas 60 and 80 are mono forms. Dicinnamate and acetate names identify additional reactions involving Polysorbate 20 or 80, so they are not merely alternate spellings of the starting ingredient.

What it does in a formula

The shared role across the series is as an emulsifying and cleansing surfactant. Polysorbate 80 is also classified as a denaturant; the dicinnamates add emulsion stabilisation, and the Polysorbate 80 derivative includes light stabilisation.

In an ingredient list, 20, 60, and 80 are not interchangeable numbers. They point to different fatty portions even though they share an ethoxylated sorbitan base and closely related functions.

Ingredient family

Polysorbate types and their differences

The number tracks changes in the fatty portion and in how many groups are attached to ethoxylated sorbitan. Compare the forms found in ingredient lists.

01

POLYSORBATE 20 / 21

Mono derivatives with a C12 chain.

Both numbers correspond to the same described chemical profile in the C12 series.

Emulsifying and cleansing surfactant.

02

POLYSORBATE 40

Mono form with a saturated C16 chain.

Its fatty chain is longer than that of 20 and 21.

Emulsifying and cleansing surfactant.

03

POLYSORBATE 60 / 61

Mono derivatives with a saturated C18 chain.

Both numbers correspond to the same described chemical profile in the saturated C18 series.

Emulsifying and cleansing surfactant.

04

POLYSORBATE 65

Tri form with three saturated C18 chains.

It differs from 60 by triple rather than mono esterification.

Emulsifying and cleansing surfactant.

05

POLYSORBATE 80 / 81

Mono derivatives with an unsaturated C18 chain.

The unsaturation separates them from the 60 and 61 forms.

Emulsifying and cleansing surfactant; 80 is also a denaturant.

06

POLYSORBATE 85

Tri form with three unsaturated C18 chains.

It differs from 80 through triple esterification.

Emulsifying and cleansing surfactant.

07

POLYSORBATE 20 DICINNAMATE

Reaction product of Polysorbate 20 and cinnamic acid.

It adds two cinnamate groups to the 20 base.

Cleansing and emulsion stabilisation.

08

POLYSORBATE 80 ACETATE

Acetylated form of the unsaturated C18 mono derivative.

The acetate distinguishes it from unmodified Polysorbate 80.

Emulsifying and cleansing surfactant.

09

POLYSORBATE 80 DICINNAMATE

Reaction product of Polysorbate 80 and cinnamic acid.

It adds cinnamate groups to the 80 base.

Emulsifying and light stabilisation.

Catalogue presence

Products containing this ingredient

See which products include it and the name used in each composition.