Cosmetic ingredient

STEARYL GLYCYRRHETINATE

Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate is an ester of glycyrrhetinic acid joined to a stearyl chain. It is a fat-soluble substance, distinct from a raw licorice extract: the name identifies a defined chemical species rather than ground root or a whole-plant extract.

INCIST1 products
CAS number
13832-70-7
Chemical name
Olean-12-en-29-oic acid, 3-hydroxy-11-oxo-, octadecyl ester, (3.beta.,20.beta.)-

STEARYL GLYCYRRHETINATE: what it is

Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate is an ester of glycyrrhetinic acid joined to a stearyl chain. It is a fat-soluble substance, distinct from a raw licorice extract: the name identifies a defined chemical species rather than ground root or a whole-plant extract.

Glycyrrhetinic acid is related to compounds found in licorice, but Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate should not be mistaken for any preparation of that plant. Joining it to the stearyl portion changes the molecule's identity and helps explain its affinity for the oily components of a formula.

STEARYL GLYCYRRHETINATE: what it does in cosmetics

In cosmetics, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate is used for skin conditioning and soothing. Skin conditioning means helping leave the skin feeling softer and less rough after application, while the soothing role explains its place in products designed to give a more comfortable skin feel.

One oil-in-water emulsion study examined how the oil phase changed this ingredient's penetration through porcine skin outside the body. It helps explain interest in formulating the compound, but it did not measure skin improvement in people or show treatment of irritation, acne, or any other condition.

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